Set in a makeshift event space in the Tuileries gardens decorated by Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni, Dior kicked off Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday with the premiere of its Fall/Winter ‘24/25 Ready to Wear collection. Models floated down the runway in trench coats and blazers emblazoned with MISS DIOR on the front, in muted colors like tan and black. The staid feel of the clothes and hair—a chic, tight chignon—was juxtaposed with a splash of neon pink on the eye, which Dior Makeup Creative and Image Director Peter Phillips said was meant to evoke a flower petal.
“We chose pink because it’s one of the colors that Maria Grazia liked that she found in the scarves created by Marc Bohan in the ‘70s or ‘80s,” Mr. Phillips told ELLE. “It has nothing to do with the show – there’s no pink in this collection, so it’s just this little, almost like a flower petal on the corner of the eye. I thought it was nice to bring this rose petal effect on the inner corner of the eye; it’s very subtle, but it’s almost like—where does it come from? And it’s kind of raw, not perfect, almost like things in nature—like little imperfections makes it even more beautiful.” Here’s how Phillips and his team created the look.
Skin
Phillips started by hydrating the skin with the Dior Capture Totale Le Sérum and Dior Capture Totale Hyalushot. Then, “It’s actually a very natural glowy skin, using the new star filter almost as a primer and then according to the skin tone a bit of foundation, a bit of concealer, whatever needed,” Phillips said.
Eyes
Phillips created a “softly announced eyebrow” using the Diorshow Brow Styler and OnSet Brow, then curled the eyelashes and added the pink pigment to the inner corners of the eye using a brush.
Lips
To keep the eyes as the main focus of the look, Phillips kept it simple when it came to the lips with just a simple swipe of Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil in clear, which he blotted to ensure it didn’t look too glossy.
To update the look for everyday wear, Phillips suggested adding mascara. “No men will think you’re sexy if you do no eyebrows and lashes,” he joked. “So if you go outside, add a bit of sensuality, add a little mascara, a little eyebrow, so you look more approachable. I think that’s what women want in the end—the catwalk look isn’t necessarily what will get you a date. It will get you a cover, but not a date.”