Since vitamin C is an unstable ingredient, meaning it loses its strength each time it’s exposed to air, heat, or light, it’s a tricky one to deal with. However, vitamin C serums for sensitive skin types are available; it just all depends on the formula. According to Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, “L-ascorbic acid, the purest form of vitamin C, is highly acidic, which can be irritating for those with sensitive skin. The higher the concentration, the greater the potential for irritation. It’s also difficult to formulate, so choosing the right formula with an optimal concentration is important when selecting the right product.”
Dr. Shirazi recommends Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD ascorbate) if you want something gentler. “It’s a new vitamin C analog that’s more suitable for sensitive skin, as it’s highly effective but much less irritating. It’s also highly stable, ensuring the product remains effective for a longer period of time. Unlike L-ascorbic acid, its lipid-soluble nature allows it to penetrate the skin’s lipid barrier more effectively, allowing it to deliver its benefits deeper into the skin,” she adds.