Tory Burch Comes Full Circle

Fashion
tory burch with models at her fall 2024 show

Hunter Abrams
elle women of impact 2024

It was 2004, the year of “Nipplegate” at the Super Bowl halftime show and sexist late-night talk show barbs. Ambition, Tory Burch recalls, was a dirty word for women back then, to the point where she recalls “shying away when a journalist asked me [about it] in a sort of negative way” as she was launching her namesake brand. That turned out to be a galvanizing moment for her, she says now. “I think it really cemented in me the desire to make it known that it was great for women to be ambitious.”

Growing up in pastoral Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, with three brothers and parents who told her she was equal to any man, Burch says, “I didn’t realize that women would be treated differently” in the workplace. When she entered the fashion industry, “I saw a very different scenario. I don’t know if it was because a lot of my bosses were men at the time, but I just think women are held to different expectations.”

Tory Burch, the brand, was an instant hit, with the designer’s colorful printed tunics and Reva logo ballet flats becoming bestsellers. Oprah called her “the next big thing in fashion,” and as with most things, Oprah was right. But beneath the shiny surface—Tory Burch, the woman, now admits—there was a fluttering of uncertainty. “I literally knew nothing when I first started,” she says. “I had never designed; I had never run a business. So it was trial by fire, and learning as I went.” She first raised funding for the brand by approaching a group of 110 friends and family members. “I said, ‘Give what you’re not scared of losing,’ because I was so terrified of taking people’s money.”

Somehow, in the interim, 20 years have elapsed. Sitting in her Manhattan office—a moodboard come to life complete with sketches, swatches, and stacks of art books—she says, “It’s hard to believe that it’s been 20 years, but also [the brand] actually feels quite young.” And Burch herself admits to feeling “like a new designer.”

backstage at tory burch fall 2024

Christina Fragkou

Backstage at Tory Burch fall 2024.

In 2019, she stepped down as CEO to focus solely on design when her husband Pierre-Yves Roussel took on the post. “I’m back to where I want to be,” she says. You can tell from her recent collections, which have won critical raves and a CFDA nomination—and earned Burch the co-sign of cool girls like Emily Ratajkowski and Phoebe Bridgers. Things you might not have imagined on a previous Burch runway, like see-through shirts and edgy pierced mules, have popped up in the past few seasons; she recently collaborated with Opening Ceremony cofounder and designer–turned–restaurateur Humberto Leon on a whimsical L.A. pop-up store concept. When she returned to design full-time, Burch says, “I wanted to reset. That said, I didn’t want to alienate [anyone] either.”

The concept of women being held back in any way is appalling to me. When I started to think about the past and the restrictive nature of things, how women weren’t allowed to express themselves and their individuality and their bodies, it bothered me.”

Today, Burch is sporting a maroon sweater that feels like a nod to her preppy roots—but also an assortment of chunky rings and a massive Loewe necklace that I mistake for a bird (it’s actually an abstract flower). Much like her customer, Burch’s aesthetic can contain multitudes. It’s why she is intent on tuning out of fashion’s typical conversations about what’s “on brand.”

“That’s the opposite of what inspires me,” she says, calling it “such an inhibitor. It detracts from innovation and evolution. I wanted to stop that in its tracks.” For spring 2024, that meant taking historical motifs like hoop skirts and crinolines and turning them on their heads. “The concept of women being held back in any way is appalling to me,” Burch says. “When I started to think about the past and the restrictive nature of things, how women weren’t allowed to express themselves and their individuality and their bodies, it bothered me.”

backstage at tory burch spring 2024

Courtesy Tory Burch

Models in hoop skirt-inspired looks backstage at Tory Burch spring 2024.

Burch hasn’t just been thinking about women’s agency through her designs. She knew at the brand’s outset that she wanted to start a female-focused foundation, which she did in 2009. “I always thought about impact and scale,” she says. “How do we have our company be a vehicle for positive change?” Since then, the company has funneled over $85 million toward the foundation and women’s empowerment projects. “For many years, we didn’t talk about it externally, because I never wanted it to be perceived as marketing in any way,” she says. “And now I can’t wait to talk about it, because what we have done and what we continue to do is transformative for women.” Burch is fond of quoting the statistic that while half of entrepreneurs are women, they receive 2 percent of venture capital funding.

Her fellowship program for female entrepreneurs aims to redress that balance, shepherding 280 women through running their businesses and providing free education, mentorship, and connections. In 2018, she began hosting her Embrace Ambition summits, a celebration of the word she once shied away from. The events have featured speakers like Dolores Huerta, Gloria Steinem, and Billie Jean King; last year, she cohosted a London dinner for female thought leaders with U.S. ambassador to the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland Jane D. Hartley that drew Saoirse Ronan, Sinéad Burke, and businesswoman Akshata Murty, who is married to UK prime minister Rishi Sunak.

tory burch speaks onstage at the 2022 embrace ambition summit

Monica Schipper//Getty Images

Tory Burch speaks at the 2022 Embrace Ambition Summit, hosted by the Tory Burch Foundation.

She’s also tried to run the kind of business that women like her needed when she was starting out (her workforce is 80 percent female, as is nearly 70 percent of the executive suite). Back in her corporate-fashion days, she says, “I loved my career, but I had three boys under the age of four. It was literally impossible for me to be flying back and forth to Spain all the time, so I had to give up a career. And I think many women face that.” In her offices, “I wanted a culture where people could feel safe, where they could leave and go to a doctor’s appointment with a child, or go to a lacrosse game.”

When I ask her about what the next 5, 10, or even 20 years might hold, she says, “I don’t think in those increments by any means.” Her mind is firmly focused on the present. Speaking of which, she tells me she just joined the advisory council of the still-underway Smithsonian American Women’s History Museum. With her trademark roll-up-her-sleeves enthusiasm, she says, “I said I wouldn’t be able to do any more boards. I got that call, and within 10 minutes I was like, ‘When do we start?’”


This article appears in the April 2024 issue of ELLE.

Products You May Like

Articles You May Like

Selena Gomez Credits Jennifer Aniston as Her First Industry Influence
Why Is Your Leg Shaking? Here Are 5 Potential Culprits
Everything We Know About Outer Banks Season 5
The 11 Best Korean Face Masks for the Best Skin of Your Life
From Salmon-Sperm Injections to Exosome Therapy, These Are the New Beauty Trends to Know

142 Comments

  1. Can I just say what a relief to find someone who actually knows what theyre talking about on the internet. You definitely know how to bring an issue to light and make it important. More people need to read this and understand this side of the story. I cant believe youre not more popular because you definitely have the gift.

  2. Do you have a spam issue on this website; I also am a blogger, and I was wanting to know your situation; we have developed some nice practices and we are looking to trade methods with others, please shoot me an email if interested.

  3. I am no longer positive where you are getting your information, however great topic. I must spend some time learning much more or understanding more. Thank you for fantastic information I used to be in search of this information for my mission.

  4. Hi my friend! I want to say that this article is amazing, great written and include almost all important infos. I’d like to see extra posts like this .

  5. Hi this is somewhat of off topic but I was wanting to know if blogs use WYSIWYG editors or if you have to manually code with HTML. I’m starting a blog soon but have no coding know-how so I wanted to get guidance from someone with experience. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

  6. Valuable information. Lucky me I found your web site by accident, and I’m shocked why this accident didn’t happened earlier! I bookmarked it.

  7. Today, I went to the beach with my children. I found a sea shell and gave it to my 4 year old daughter and said “You can hear the ocean if you put this to your ear.” She put the shell to her ear and screamed. There was a hermit crab inside and it pinched her ear. She never wants to go back! LoL I know this is entirely off topic but I had to tell someone!

  8. I’m no longer sure the place you’re getting your info, but great topic. I needs to spend some time learning more or understanding more. Thank you for excellent info I was searching for this information for my mission.

  9. Hi, Neat post. There’s a problem with your site in internet explorer, would test this… IE still is the market leader and a big portion of people will miss your great writing due to this problem.

  10. I am really enjoying the theme/design of your web site. Do you ever run into any browser compatibility issues? A number of my blog visitors have complained about my blog not working correctly in Explorer but looks great in Firefox. Do you have any ideas to help fix this issue?

  11. I intended to put you that very little word in order to give many thanks again with the pleasing opinions you have featured at this time. It is so unbelievably open-handed with you to convey freely all a lot of people might have offered for an electronic book to help with making some cash for their own end, principally seeing that you could possibly have done it if you decided. The principles additionally worked to provide a good way to be sure that someone else have the same dreams just like my very own to know the truth significantly more with respect to this issue. I am certain there are millions of more enjoyable sessions ahead for many who look over your site.

  12. Thank you for every other informative web site. The place else may just I get that kind of information written in such a perfect manner? I have a venture that I’m simply now operating on, and I have been at the glance out for such info.

  13. After study a few of the blog posts on your website now, and I truly like your way of blogging. I bookmarked it to my bookmark website list and will be checking back soon. Pls check out my web site as well and let me know what you think.

  14. I’ve been absent for a while, but now I remember why I used to love this blog. Thank you, I’ll try and check back more frequently. How frequently you update your site?

  15. What Is FitSpresso? The effective weight management formula FitSpresso is designed to inherently support weight loss. It is made using a synergistic blend of ingredients chosen especially for their metabolism-boosting and fat-burning features.

  16. Hey! I could have sworn I’ve been to this blog before but after checking through some of the post I realized it’s new to me. Anyhow, I’m definitely glad I found it and I’ll be book-marking and checking back often!

  17. Thanks for the sensible critique. Me and my neighbor were just preparing to do a little research about this. We got a grab a book from our area library but I think I learned more from this post. I’m very glad to see such excellent information being shared freely out there.

  18. I have not checked in here for some time because I thought it was getting boring, but the last several posts are great quality so I guess I¦ll add you back to my daily bloglist. You deserve it my friend 🙂

  19. Hey very cool website!! Man .. Beautiful .. Amazing .. I’ll bookmark your blog and take the feeds also…I’m happy to find so many useful info here in the post, we need develop more strategies in this regard, thanks for sharing. . . . . .

  20. I’m truly enjoying the design and layout of your site. It’s a very easy on the eyes which makes it much more enjoyable for me to come here and visit more often. Did you hire out a designer to create your theme? Superb work!

  21. I haven’t checked in here for some time since I thought it was getting boring, but the last few posts are good quality so I guess I’ll add you back to my everyday bloglist. You deserve it my friend 🙂

  22. Woah! I’m really loving the template/theme of this blog. It’s simple, yet effective. A lot of times it’s very hard to get that “perfect balance” between superb usability and appearance. I must say that you’ve done a fantastic job with this. Also, the blog loads super fast for me on Firefox. Outstanding Blog!

  23. I really enjoy reading on this website, it holds superb posts. “And all the winds go sighing, For sweet things dying.” by Christina Georgina Rossetti.

  24. Fitspresso is a brand-new natural weight loss aid designed to work on the root cause of excess and unexplained weight gain. The supplement uses an advanced blend of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants to support healthy weight loss by targeting the fat cells’ circadian rhythm.

  25. Fitspresso is a brand-new natural weight loss aid designed to work on the root cause of excess and unexplained weight gain. The supplement uses an advanced blend of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants to support healthy weight loss by targeting the fat cells’ circadian rhythm

  26. Unlock the potential of your pineal gland with the potent Pineal XT Dietary supplements serve as a gateway to expanding one’s range of expression, and Pineal gland support supplements, in particular, can elevate mental and spiritual capabilities. Pineal XT vitamins offer a pathway to endless joy, prosperity, health, and love. These supplements are designed to bolster the pineal gland’s function, enhance overall body performance, and boost energy levels. It stands as a premier alternative for reducing the impact of fluoride, pollutants, and the natural aging process.

  27. I would like to thnkx for the efforts you have put in writing this blog. I am hoping the same high-grade blog post from you in the upcoming as well. In fact your creative writing abilities has inspired me to get my own blog now. Really the blogging is spreading its wings quickly. Your write up is a good example of it.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *