When Pat McGrath first debuted the glass skin look at the Maison Margiela Couture Spring 2024 show, the ELLE beauty team was obsessed. How did McGrath make the models look like porcelain dolls? Almost exactly a year later, we not only have an answer but a way to try the look at home with Pat McGrath’s new Glass Artistry Mask. Excited and intrigued, the team tested the mask to see if we, too, could get all dolled up. Below, our DIY results—and our honest thoughts.
“Like most children who grew up during a certain time, I had an obsession with American Girl dolls. I would read the catalogs as though they were books, and left pages earmarked around the house, hoping that my parents would ‘take the hint’ and surprise me with one. I never got an American Girl doll, but one year, my mom did surprise me with a porcelain doll from Macy’s with a glassy stare and shiny, hard skin that I couldn’t stop looking at. Roughly 20 years and three hours later, I became a version of that doll, minus the hard skin and blank gaze, thanks to Pat McGrath.
I was lucky enough to be invited to her studio to put myself through the Margiela-like, labor-intensive process, which involved a full makeup application, hairstyling session, and not being emotive like Mark Zuckerberg testifying before the Senate. I was fascinated to learn that you can see makeup through the mask. Then, like ice freezing over a lake, you can also apply makeup on top of it. You can paint the mask into your skin using a brush, and it feels like a cold gel. For best results, the McGrath team applied four layers, with blow drying sessions between each one. The mask felt and looked like glossy, hardened rice paper on my skin, and I learned that smiling, talking, biting, and laughing would break the mask. I was worried that a simple sneeze or itch would ruin everyone’s hard work. But like many of my anxieties, none of these things actually happened, and I was able to become a real-life doll. The best part, other than the #oddlysatisfying feeling of cracking the mask like an egg, is that it also works as a skin care product. While some might dismiss this as gimmicky, I was amazed to find that my skin actually looked dewy after removing, and felt soft like a flower petal. It’s beauty from within, McGrath-style.”—Kathleen Hou, beauty director
Pat McGrath Skin Fetish: Glass 001 Artistry Mask
“I can admit that I’ve watched the Maison Margiela Couture Spring 2024 show an embarrassing number of times. Not only did I love the sheer drama of the show and that one of my favorite Adele songs, ‘Hometown Glory,’ was the soundtrack, but the makeup was mesmerizing. I loved the porcelain finish of the look. Applying it felt similar to putting on a regular face mask. It didn’t smudge my makeup underneath and dried down into a glossy sheer coating that gave my face an instant editorial look. Once the mask dries, you won’t be able to talk or else it will begin to crack. Luckily, the look speaks for itself.” —Tasha Nicole Smith, beauty assistant
“My first attempt at using the Pat McGrath Glass Artistry Mask was a gigantic fail, and it was 100 percent my fault. Instead of using a brush, I used my fingers, and the process disturbed the base makeup underneath, making my concealer look patchy and almost congealed. I also didn’t wait long enough between layers, so the first layer lifted in some parts and pilled in others when I tried to rub on a second coat. I eventually took that all off and actually used a brush while drying my face in front of a fan after each layer. The end result was glorious—my skin looked and felt like thin, gleaming plastic in the best way. I’ve literally never been glowier, and I couldn’t stop staring at myself. Once it dries, you can’t really make any facial expressions, so it’s not practical for every day, crushing my dreams of becoming a porcelain doll full-time. But I’m going to keep what’s left of my sample tube and incorporate it into my Halloween costume this year, one way or another. Also, I wanted to add that removing it is the most satisfying feeling ever; it’s like peeling dried glue off of your skin or the plastic off the dashboard of a new car.” —Carol Lee, associate e-commerce beauty writer
“Admittedly, I didn’t use this mask under the best circumstances (i.e. at 10:30 P.M. on makeup I’d worn all day), but it still delivered. The overall effect was super fun—I got to be a Pat McGrath doll! I found the mask to be easy to apply with a foundation brush, and it dried quickly between coats, making it easy to layer and build. The final look made me feel like my skin was truly made of glass. It’s just as delicate, too—one small facial movement and I found that I could crack the mask and break the spell. For a photo or an editorial moment, this mask is genius, but don’t plan to wear it outside, since it doesn’t let you move your face. Also, word to the wise: If you have sensitive eyes like I do, be sure to avoid getting too close to the undereye area. I found even the proximity made my eyes sting a bit.” —Katie Berohn, beauty editor
“As someone obsessed with clay masks that dry so stiff that it prevents me from making any facial expressions, this mask offers the same tightening effect with a different finish. Instead of sapping up any excess oil, like clay formulas, this one leaves a glossy film upon dry-down. How do we get there? With a lot of patience, layers, and child-like wonder. I applied the thin, water-like consistency to my bare skin instead of a full beat, as Mother did to the models, and it felt like a fresh splash of water with each brush stroke. However, that feeling quickly faded when it dried. About two to three layers are necessary for the doll-like effect we saw on the runways, and with each layer, my skin felt stiffer and tighter. The end result? A glossy, high-shine mug so reflective I could see my future. I was thoroughly impressed by how runway-ready I looked in just a few minutes. After wiping my skin clean, it was soft to the touch and slightly radiant. Novelty makeup lovers will find this mask to be a dream. As for plain ol’ me, I’ll employ this for an added boost of radiance when I have some extra time on my hands. Back to clay masks I go!” —Nerisha Penrose, beauty commerce editor